So you can drive a car, sure, but can you troubleshoot one?
These days, car technology has developed by leaps and bounds. In comparison to the past, some problems we encounter today don't seem as catastrophic. No matter if you're driving a manual or an automatic transmission, there will still be some basic problems that you will definitely encounter while driving on the road; regardless of the car brand, some problems tend to be universal in nature.
That is why it's smarter to be "in the know" about major features and specific issues that a car could develop from time to time. This also means that as a motorist, we all have to be responsible for the safety and reliability of our vehicle's various mechanisms, both inside and outside. After all, this four-wheeled vehicle -- no matter if it's 2WD or 4WD -- carries not only our things but also our lives. To be safe on the road is always better than to be sorry off the road after a disaster. We know you agree with that!
Do you think you know even the most basic troubleshooting tips and techniques in handling a car? Then let this quiz help you out as a handy reviewer. It's time you get acquainted with these issues, so click away and get started on this quiz!
An oil spot under your car will be brown fluid. Most of the time, it'll be because of wear-and-tear on gaskets, seals, and connections -- and don't forget to check oil pan seals, which are under the car.
The thermostat's job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. A broken thermostat won't let coolant reach a hot engine, thus causing it to overheat.
For your car's engine to start, it needs to have good air/fuel mixture, compression, and a spark (that's the ignition).
"Throwing a rod" means a connecting rod, which connects a piston and the crankshaft, has broken.
If your car's engine is shaking so badly you can feel it in both your steering wheel and your seat, there's a misfire problem, including a worn spark plug, a bad spark plug wire or a clogged fuel injector.
Excessive engine vibration, usually because of bad motor mounts aren't holding it securely, can be felt on the passenger's side of the car.
Motor oil can be amber to dark brown to almost black depending on how used and dirty it is. But if it's a foamy, milky white, it means that some antifreeze (or water) has contaminated it, and you'll want to look into what could be leaking from the car's cooling system.
Although all of these are symptoms your car's engine has or is about to seize, the most common is complete engine failure.
A deep knocking that's more like hammering than pinging is called a "rod knock." This happens from wear-and-tear or damage to the rod bearings -- and it's a fatal engine problem.
Together these symptoms usually indicate the car's engine is flooded.
This can happen when the mixture of fuel and air gets off balance, most commonly in cars that have a carburetor instead of fuel injection. The best way to solve it is to let the excess fuel evaporate, so wait as long as you can, and then try to start the engine while holding the gas pedal to the floor -- but don't pump it, because that could be what got you in this predicament to begin with.
When your car feels sluggish and you can hear popping from under the hood, it could be anything from dirty or damaged spark plugs and spark plug wires to a clogged fuel filter and, possibly, ignition problems or trouble with the car's catalytic converter.
Black smoke coming from a car's exhaust pipe can happen because the engine is flooded with gasoline, typically by damaged fuel injectors and sensors. Black smoke can also mean a problem with your car's air filter too.
On a cold morning you may notice white vapor coming from your exhaust pipe. It's normal and stops as soon as your car warms up -- probably no longer than 20 minutes. But, if it's white smoke coming from your car's exhaust pipe, that can be caused by all of these problems.
Blue smoke indicates there's a problem with leaking and burning oil.
A sweet, steamy smell inside your car is a coolant problem, and the engine is overheating.
Excessive oil consumption as well as poor performance and loss of power are all common symptoms of worn piston rings.
"Piston slap," the sound a piston makes when it rocks back and forth inside a cylinder, sounds a lot like a bell.
You'll know your car's MAF is bad because it can decrease your car's fuel economy by as much as 25 percent.
Ethylene glycol antifreeze is that green, orange or yellow sweet-smelling fluid. The first symptom of a leak? If you don't notice the indicator lamp, you will notice when your car's engine overheats.
Diesel is thicker than gasoline, which means as soon as you started the car, the diesel went to work clogging your gasoline-powered engine's fuel injectors, filters and lines. If your car makes it home and continues to start, you'll feel timing and performance problems before the engine gives up.
Also called run-on, it mostly happens when you fill up with the wrong octane gas for your car. Both a failing solenoid or an overactive carburetor could also cause the problem.
If your engine is surging it's a sign that it's not getting the right fuel mix or enough of it.
Sizzling indicates there's a fluid -- engine oil or antifreeze -- leaking onto something hot, like the exhaust manifold.
There are a few reasons, and degrees of severity, for your engine to start pinging or knocking at you. It happens because of a problem with the air-fuel mixture, and could mean: you need to use a different fuel octane, there may be carbon buildup or the spark plugs need replacement. Left unfixed, it can do some serious engine damage.
Poor gas mileage and stalling, as well as idling rough and, if you listen, a hissing sound from around the engine area under the hood, are symptoms of an engine vacuum leak.
Clicking noise, also called "chatter," is the sound of your car's valve train, specifically defective hydraulic valve lifters (also known as hydraulic tappets).
The Check Engine Light, also known as the Malfunction Indicator Light, will trigger for a lot of things, including bad catalytic converter, for a dirty air flow sensor, and a loose gas cap, but it won't give you reminders.
The engine control module (ECM), also known as the engine control unit (ECU) or powertrain control module) PCM), handles the engine's performance.
First, check that your oil level isn't low. Not the problem? It could be oil pressure. If that's not about 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPMs of engine speed, it could be a bad oil pump; if it is, it could be the oil pressure sending unit is on the fritz. But the worst case scenario is worn engine bearings, which means your engine will need to be either rebuilt or replaced.
Faulty piston pins cause engine knocking, but it's a really specific type: a metallic-sounding double knock, usually most noticeable at idle.
The most common three engine problems are: 1) the engine won't start, 2) Service Engine Soon light comes on and 3) overheating.
A flashing Check Engine Light means the problem is more serious than a loose gas cap. Check for signs that your car's engine is misfiring, a serious problem that could cause damage to the catalytic converter.
Your car's engine may seize if there's a lack of oil, if there's rust accumulation and if there's a mechanical issue like a loose piston that's become lodged.