Could You Be a Plumber?

Copper pipes are definitely not for locating hollow walls. There's a variety of uses for them, not limited to water carriage, tubings for fridges, and multiple underground installations.

PVC is the common term for a type of piping with the particular chemical makeup made to handle all sorts of hazardous waste. You'd often find the term "PVC pipe" thrown around in the industry.

Galvanized pipes have what's called a "zinc coating." That zinc coating actually makes it very easy for the pipe to resist rust.

CPVC pipes are the same as PVC pipes. However, there is one difference: CPVC pipes are treated with chlorine, hence the term "chlorinated polyvinyl chloride."

Since copper pipes don't have any threads, it presents a problem in trying to connect them to each other. Soldered fittings solve that issue as connectors between two pipes. Simply fit two pipes on both ends, and you have a connection.

It might as well be a marriage made in Heaven as a dielectric union prevents electrolysis from occurring between the two different pipes. Electrolysis is what will strip away the copper tubing, hence why the union is there to protect it.

Couplings are a great way to transition to different sizes. Get the right kind of coupling, and you can fit just about any size copper pipe to another one regardless of size matching.

Because of an adjustable clamp used with the fitting designed to hold the pipes or hoses in place, the fitting has earned the nickname. It's a "barb" designed to hold the "hose" in place.

Piping's durable, so you need something just as durable. Hacksaws do the trick. You can also get a pair of pipe cutters, which are obviously stronger than any pair of "scissors."

It's actually pretty easy fitting copper pipes without the threading as all you need is that torch and a solder to merge both together. You then use the cloth to smooth the connection up.

The beautiful thing about solvent welding glue is that it's a substance designed to melt the fitting to the pipe. Once they're joined, nothing can break them apart.

Compression fittings are designed to be completely airtight, which is why they're generally used for water supply.

A "plug" is typically a type of cap. This cap is what's used to block off one end of a male thread for a solvent weld connection.

Adapter couplings are handy to have around. The reason why is due to their customization—hence why they're perfect for solvent welds fitted to threaded pipes.

Common lingo shows that the name for that particular type of fitting is none other than the "street elbow," a fitting that has one side fitting the male end, and the other side fitting the female end.

A "tee" is named as such because of the shape of the fitting, which looks like the capital letter "T." A sanitary tee has a curve designed for a cleanout plug to keep things sanitary when dealing with waste lines.

"Nipples" are common. They're small versions of pipes used to increase length, getting to connections easier.

High water pressure tends to cause a lot banging. If you hear it, you need to do something about it. A water hammer arrestor does the trick.

For under-floor supply lines, you're going to want to connect the larger one to the toilet. The piping connected to the toilet, outside of washers, represents the largest due to waste management.

Traps are a type of piping with a curve designed to trap wastewater. As the pipe continues to fill, it pushes wastewater down into the drain.

Tub drains are only used for tubs given the depth of water. Pop-up drains are pretty standard in bathroom sinks.

1 and 1/4-inch traps are commonly for bathroom sinks. If you're looking for the ideal trap for your kitchen sink, you'll want to go with a 1 and 1/2 inch.

Who knew there was such a thing? That hardening material that's very much like silly putty only so much more durable is often used to minimize all sorts of leaking.

There's no standard lengths for plastic lines. Generally speaking, the rest of the answers are all common benefits for going plastic for your water supply.

Floor flanges typically stabilize piping and tubes on any flat surface. This includes pipes in walls, floors or just about anywhere.

We don't doubt that a lot of these would be worthwhile to have at some point. But ultimately you won't go far without a good hands-free flashlight to light the way.

Because fridges require certain freezing measures, flared fittings tend to provide the best possible compression. The flares manage to maintain compression through those extreme temperatures.

The hex nut is the crux of the entire configuration. Tighten it or remove it and then add packaging to seal it more, and that should do the trick.

ACETAL valves resist mineral buildup. They are, therefore, quite exceptional when optimizing the quality of your water supply.

Typically ball valves are used for your natural gas or LP. They tend to be a lot safer in terms of operation.

Gaskets are used to improve the tightening of fittings to pipes, pressed against threadings. They're usually made of rubber, plastic or paper.

Bushings are smaller fittings designed to match the size of pipes that are too small for established fittings currently placed. Placing a bushing inside a pipe will then make the hole of the pipe smaller.

Drop ear elbows, also known as "wing elbows," typically are used as rigid installation pieces. You use them for holding elbows to a wall, often when installing shower arms and washer hose valves.

The only thing you might need would be pipe cement. Everything else would pretty much not do the job at all given the environment. Pipe cement is designed to bind with the piping and ensure proper hold.

Most houses have these outdoor faucets with the valve. They give a homeowner direct access to the water supply for garden hoses.