1. Not get the oil changed immediately
   Drive it in cold weather.
2. Push the engine hard.
   Not rotate the tires

There's a temptation to rev and push a new car to see what it can really do before the ravages of time start to take their toll, but resist that urge for a little while. The engine will last longer, have fewer issues and ultimately perform better if you take it a little easy and keep the RPMs in a sensible range in the beginning. Recommended "break-in" times vary by vehicle, but giving it 1,000 miles is a good rule of thumb.

1. Double clutching
   Revving the motor
2. Riding the brake
   Shifting from drive to reverse without stopping

Changing directions without coming to a complete stop puts a lot of stress on your car — particularly the engine, transmission and axles. Just take a second to stop, and then change direction. Your engine and powertrain will thank you!

1. You should leave your left foot resting on the brake for quick stops.
   You shouldn't leave your hand on the gear shifter in a manual vehicle.
2. Satellite radio is less distracting than terrestrial radio.
   You should leave a one-second space cushion between you and the lead car.

Resting your hand on the gear shifter in a manual car might seem harmless — how much damage can you do to the transmission single-handedly? — but it can prematurely wear small parts, such as bushings and synchronizers. You should leave a two-second space cushion between you and the car in front of you, don't ride the brake, and any radio can be distracting, depending on what's on.

1. You should never change it because modern oil is self-cleaning.
   Every 1,000 miles
2. Every 10,000 miles
   Around every 5,000 miles

Check your car's specific recommended maintenance schedule — the guidelines can vary from car to car — but, in general, modern vehicles require an oil change about every 5,000 miles. Also, no oil is self-cleaning.

1. No, it wasn't; higher octane makes every car run faster.
   No, it wasn't; higher octane will make your engine run better.
2. Higher octane is a "big oil" scam.
   Not if you have a high-performance vehicle

The octane rating on gasoline denotes how compressible it is — the higher the number, the more compressible it is, which means more fuel can be injected into the cylinder for more power. While high-performance cars can make use of this fact, consumer vehicles are engineered to run just fine on the lower octane gasoline (and won't benefit from the more expensive stuff).

1. True: Just don't let it go so low that the engine stops.
   True: Just make sure you use high-quality gas.
2. False: It throws off the vehicle's weight distribution.
   False: It can harm components in your car.

Providing fuel for the internal combustion process isn't the only thing gas in the tank does. Some fuel pumps are designed to stay submerged in fuel as a way of cooling themselves off. If the fuel tank runs almost dry, the pump's life will grow shorter and need replacing sooner.

1. They need to be put in right-side-up.
   They should be pre-oiled.
2. They should be the top-most ring.
   All the above are true.

If you install an oil-control piston ring (which is the second of the three rings on the piston), make sure that it's installed right-side-up; otherwise, the oil will leak, smoke will form, and you'll be embarrassed in the auto shop. It just takes a second, so make sure you're putting them on in the right direction!

1. Nothing happens; antifreeze color doesn't matter.
   It won't be effective.
2. Your radiator might stop working completely.
   It really depends on the brands.

There are generally two types of antifreeze: the traditional green/yellow type and the "Dexcool" orange/pink type. While they are designed to perform the same function, they are very different chemicals and, when mixed together, can form a gel that will clog your radiator and stop it from functioning. Just say no!

1. Check the other gauges to see if there's a serious problem.
   Pull the car over immediately.
2. Ignore it and see if it goes off.
   Pop the hood to see if anything looks "wrong."

The "check engine" light can be maddeningly enigmatic, but it really is trying to tell you something. When it comes on, check the other lights/gauges to see if there's an overheating or oil pressure problem. Next, make sure the gas cap is undamaged and on tight. If it's still on, you probably need to schedule a service appointment. However, if the light is blinking (or red), there is a serious problem; get to the garage!

1. Accelerated in a high gear
   Drove too slow in a low gear
2. Pulled too much weight
   Revved at idle

When you "lug" your engine, you're accelerating while in high gear. It's better to downshift if, for instance, you need to speed up to pass someone. That's because, at high gears, your engine has to work much harder to do the same amount of work. This is especially bad for engines with turbochargers.

1. Causing fluid leaks
   Breaking various seals in the engine
2. Damaging the brakes
   All of the above

You know the type of driver we're talking about — you might even be that driver. In city driving, they are quick off the line when the light turns green, accelerating down the block only to have to hit the brakes for the next red light. That high-power start and stop is hard on your vehicle, especially its engine and brakes. Steady driving is much better for the automobile.

1. About every 30,000 miles
   About every 90,000 miles
2. It never needs to be flushed.
   About every 60,000 miles

It doesn't need to be done very often, but, in general, cars can benefit from having the power steering system flushed and refilled every 75,000 to 100,000 miles. If the car is becoming hard to steer or starts making squealing, groaning or whining noises, you should have it checked out.

1. Around 60,000 miles
   Around 100,000 miles
2. Around 30,000 miles
   It never needs to be changed.

The timing belt keeps the camshaft and crankshaft in sync, which is critical for the internal combustion process. If it breaks, the car stops. The tension and condition of the belt should be checked every 15,000 miles or so, and should be replaced every 60,000 miles, just to be on the safe side.

1. If you never run it "dead," it should be fine.
   It depends on the environment (cold weather will kill a battery).
2. Batteries have a definite lifespan.
   It depends on the type of battery.

Batteries will naturally lose their ability to hold a charge over time. Generally, three years is a good, dependable lifespan for a battery; the older they get, the less reliable they will become. If you're in that zone and the weather is starting to turn cold, do yourself a favor and change out the battery.

1. No, the excess oil will eventually burn off.
   Yes, it can cause leaks in gaskets and seals.
2. Yes, it can give you unreliable oil pressure readings.
   Yes, it can affect fuel mileage.

Each vehicle is designed to have a certain oil volume for optimal performance — no more and no less. When too much oil is added to the system, the increased pressure puts strain on seals and gaskets within the engine.

1. Making an appointment to get it serviced
   Parking the vehicle immediately and having it towed to the shop
2. Getting the details and see if it's service you can do yourself
   Ignore it. The vast majority of recalls are only issued so mechanics can "up-sell" services.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) will issue a recall when it — or the manufacturer — determines there's a safety problem with a certain make or model of vehicle. It can be a hassle, but it's for your car's — and your — own good to get your vehicle to a qualified mechanic to get the problem taken care of.

1. Try to identify the fluid.
   Note the position of the puddle relative to your car.
2. Ignore it and see if it gets worse.
   Get to a mechanic.

Except for the water that drips from your air conditioner (this condensation is normal), puddles under your car are never a good sign and shouldn't be ignored. Try to identify the fluid (the six most common are water, motor oil, transmission fluid, coolant, gear oil and power steering fluid), and note where you think the leak is, based on position, to give your mechanic a clue of what to search for.

1. Yes, the smoother they are, the better the oil will coat.
   No, there needs to be a texture.
2. Yes, that's the way to maintain a strong compression seal.
   No, there needs to be a spiral pattern for the piston rotation.

Piston walls have a slight crosshatch pattern in order to better maintain lubrication from the oil. If they are finished smooth, the piston rings won't last as long. Also, if your pistons are rotating, you've done something seriously wrong.

1. True: Start your car a few minutes before you need to leave to warm it up.
   True: Turn the defroster up to full to get the ice off.
2. False: It's hard on the engine.
   False: You burn twice as much fuel when you do that.

It's tempting to start the car on a winter morning and go back inside for five or 10 minutes to allow it to get toasty, but the reality is that you're harming your engine. Just letting it idle doesn't allow the engine to warm as quickly as it would if you were driving, meaning the oil isn't being circulated as well, and the parts aren't getting proper lubrication for a longer period of time.

1. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.
   It depends on the type of engine you have.
2. It depends on the age of the engine.
   Synthetic oil can definitely cause leaks.

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks, and it can extend the life of your engine. What it sometimes can do is reveal leaks that were already present. The synthetic oil can do a good job of cleaning deposits — sometimes too good because those deposits were the only thing plugging holes in the system.

1. No, if the car's not in motion, the parts aren't put under pressure.
   Not with modern cars, which are designed with more robust parts
2. Yes, the body will begin to rust more quickly.
   Yes, certain parts need to be used to maintain performance.

Inactivity can harm certain elements of your vehicle — particularly the battery and the tires — so you should make a point to drive the car a bit every week. Just like you need exercise, your car needs some roadwork!

1. Only the oil needs to be changed regularly.
   Oil and windshield-washer fluid are the only "user-serviceable" fluids.
2. They all have roughly the same lifespan.
   They need to be checked regularly.

There are several fluids in your car and engine that need to maintain a certain level and quality to maintain good operation. Some of these fluids you can check periodically on your own and top off if needed, while others should be checked during the course of regular maintenance. You DO have regular maintenance performed, right?

1. Strange noises should be investigated.
   If the noise doesn't rise above a certain threshold, it's normal.
2. Ask others to listen, and see if it's your imagination.
   Only grinding sounds are truly serious.

Besides the on-board diagnostic system and, well, breaking down, your engine and other vehicle systems will often tell you what they need by the sounds they make, and it's best to pay attention. Noises ignored and repairs put off until "later" can cause more damage down the road — and a higher repair bill.

1. Sure, the gauge says so.
   Yes, it's the perfect time to blow out some "gunk."
2. No, it's never good to rev the engine.
   No, the engine could still be "cold."

The temperature gauge doesn't tell you the warmth of the engine; it's designed to tell you the warmth of the coolant. The engine needs to travel about 5 to 7 miles to reach its optimal temperature, where all the parts are lubricated and fully ready for action.

1. It's required on certain models of cars.
   It allows the user to use more torque to tighten bolts and nuts.
2. It keeps the user from over-tightening bolts or nuts.
   Nothing, it's just a "fancier," more expensive wrench.

Mechanics can sometimes get a little too ... enthusiastic when tightening bolts or nuts, which can lead to problems if the threads get stripped or the part is on so tightly that it can't be removed later. A torque wrench is designed to allow a certain amount of force to be used and will stop when that specification is reached.

1. They can't.
   Through their condition when examined
2. Through the ODB-II report
   The sounds they make

When a mechanic pulls a spark plug from the engine, he or she can tell a great deal about how the motor is operating by looking at the condition of the electrode. If it's grey or tan, it means that things are running fine. If it's pristine, it means the cylinder isn't firing. Black deposits indicate a vacuum leak or even a blown head gasket. The color tells a story!

1. No, more compression can put stress on the fuel pump.
   No, there's a limit.
2. Yes, but you might have to switch to premium gas.
   Yes, there's no upper limit to compression.

Cylinder compression is a measure of how tightly the air/fuel mix is squeezed between the top of the cylinder and the piston before the spark detonates the gas and drives the piston back down. Higher compression means more fuel burned and results in more power, but there is a limit. Too much compression will burn out the engine.

1. The oil's viscosity
   The oil's weight by volume
2. The oil's quality
   The oil's color

The oil's viscosity — how easily it pours — is measured by its "weight." A "5w30" oil has a lower viscosity rating than a "10w30" oil. High viscosity oil flows slower at low temperatures (the "W" stands for winter, and is a measure of temperature). The car's manufacturer will usually recommend the optimal weight of oil for your particular engine.

1. Yes, they have to meet the same standards.
   Yes, OEM parts are just more expensive.
2. No, mechanics are obligated to use OEM parts.
   No, off-brands generally aren't a good idea.

It's generally better to go with original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts because they have been designed and tested to work with your vehicle, and dependability could keep you from having to have the same repair performed down the road. Usually, when a mechanic has to replace a part, it's the labor that makes up the bulk of the cost — not the part. Replacing a head gasket can cost $1,000. The part usually costs less than $100.

1. Pull to the side of the road and open the hood.
   Turn the heater on full blast.
2. Keep driving.
   Call your mechanic.

When your engine starts to overheat, it will still run, but you are running an increased risk of doing serious damage to your engine if you keep driving. If you're not in a place where you can call for help, pulling over and opening the hood can help to temporarily cool down the engine, as can running the heater. However, it's time to get your car to a mechanic.

1. Throttle body
   Ignition coils
2. Transmission
   Tappets

When your car's RPMs are jumping right before the automatic transmission shifts gears, if you notice that it's shifting more than usual and/or you hear a grinding sound, these are all symptoms of low transmission fluid. You'll probably want to get that checked out sooner than later.

1. The butterfly valve in the throttle is stuck.
   You need to replace the oil filter.
2. You need to clean the carburetor .
   You need to clean the air filter.

Air is a vital element in the smooth operation of your car (it's the air/fuel mix that makes the car go), and all that air goes through the air filter. When the air filter gets too dirty or clogged, it can throw your entire system off kilter. The air filter is easy to examine and clean or replace, if necessary.

1. Roll them on.
   Use a piston ring expansion tool.
2. Torque them on.
   Hammer them on.

While the oil wiper ring has to be rolled on, it's recommended that you use a piston ring expansion tool to put the compression and oil control rings on the piston so as not to distort them. The expansion tool puts less stress on the rings by using uniform pressure.

1. Yes, additives make the oil less effective in lubricating.
   No, they will increase your engine's life.
2. It really depends on the engine.
   It doesn't really matter.

Many experts believe that oil additives don't really add much to your quest to keep your engine at peak performance. It's much more important to regularly change the oil and keep it clean and at the proper level; that's what will do your engine the most good.

1. Gets rid of rust deposits
   Checks the system for leaks
2. Lubricates the water pump
   All of the above

Engine coolant loses its potency after a while, so it's a good idea to get a radiator flush done from time to time (check your owner's manual for frequency). By washing out the old antifreeze with fresh coolant, rust and scale deposits are flushed away, the water pump gets better lubrication (leading to longer life), and the mechanic can see if there are any trouble spots or leaks in the system.